Article published on 2025-06-26

Where does caviar come from: the origins of sturgeon caviar

Discover the fabulous history of caviar and its iconic fish: the sturgeon.

1 kg caviar

The origins of ‘black gold’ are as varied as they are unclear.
Many people dispute its paternity. The term ‘caviar’ itself is also not unanimously accepted, as it could just as easily come from the Turkish ‘haviar’ as from the ancient Greek “avyon”, meaning ‘fish eggs’ and ‘eggs’ respectively. [1]

Since 1962, the word caviar has been reserved in France for the strict designation of the eggs of the sturgeon, a large cartilaginous fish. [2]

Among the 26 existing species of sturgeon, the best known include Acipenser baerii, which produces Baeri caviar, Acipenser gueldenstaedtii, which produces Oscietra caviar, and Huso huso, which produces Beluga caviar. There is also Sevruga caviar, which comes from Acipenser stellatus.

While its precious grains have made it legendary, the Acipenser remains an unusual and surprising fish, both in terms of its size, which can reach several metres, and its life expectancy, which can exceed 100 years. The consumption of caviar as we know it remains just as mysterious, dating back to antiquity in the regions surrounding the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea, where sturgeon was abundant. Mentioned in the writings of Diphile as early as the 4th century BC, caviar seems to have already been a product appreciated for its subtle flavours, inherited from its various preparations, ranging from fresh to salted. [3]

From the 16th to the 19th century, Russian influence continued to grow in the Caspian Sea. A real craze for caviar gradually spread throughout the region, where it quickly became one of the most popular products at the Tsar's court. This international trade even spread to Europe, where our Italian neighbours came to stock up in the Baltic Sea [5], foreshadowing its future success throughout the world.

FROM THE ARRIVAL OF CAVIAR IN FRANCE TO THE BIRTH OF THE FRENCH CAVIAR INDUSTRY.

At the beginning of the 20th century, caviar conquered France, starting with Paris, where it was imported by wealthy Russian immigrant families fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution. This caviar, known as ‘Russian-style’, is recognisable by its high salt content, which facilitates its transport. It is naturally paired with traditional vodka, a strong alcohol that helps to ‘rinse’ the palate.

Another major specialist in the Caspian Sea, Iran offers caviar in grains or pressed form, which appeals for its delicacy and continues to expand the market.

While the caviar consumed in France at that time was imported, French caviar production began tentatively in Aquitaine at the end of the 19th century.

Naturally present in the Gironde estuary, sturgeon were then fished for their meat. After a few attempts at caviar production that were thwarted by the First World War, production finally got off the ground under the impetus of Emile Prunier. [4]

A true visionary, this great Parisian restaurateur created the French caviar industry from scratch to meet the growing demand of his Parisian clientele. By organising packaging centres, he enabled the production of wild French caviar, which was served at his restaurant on Rue Duflot: from the pond to the plate.

FROM SPECIES PROTECTION TO FARMING

A victim of its own success, the wild sturgeon population declined dramatically during the 20th century. Overfishing, pollution and habitat degradation led to the near extinction of the species, threatening its survival.

At the Washington Convention in 2008, wild sturgeon officially became a protected species and fishing for it was banned. This decision encouraged the growth of sturgeon farming and caviar production in specialised farms and fish farms, a practice in which France quickly became one of the world leaders.

PRUNIER, A PIONEER IN FARMING IN FRANCE

In the late 1980s, Laurent and Valérie Sabeau became pioneers in sturgeon farming in Aquitaine and opened one of the first dedicated fish farms.

Together, they worked actively to establish respectful farming conditions, drawing inspiration from the best Iranian techniques with the support of Pierre Bergé, with the aim of producing the best French caviar.

Sturgeon farming requires expertise and detailed knowledge of this fragile and unusual fish, which is farmed for an average of 8 to 12 years depending on the variety, in order to produce its precious eggs. While its diet, consisting exclusively of sustainable foods, is rigorously monitored and regulated by our specifications, it is also essential to respect its life cycle.

Did you know that you have to wait until a female has reached her second or third maturation cycle before you can harvest her precious eggs? It is at this stage of maturity that our experts consider the size and texture of the eggs to be optimal. On average, sturgeons reach sexual maturity between the ages of 8 and 12.

In this sense, sturgeon farming has allowed us to develop, over time, increased expertise in each of our fish, and to gain precision and consistency in the quality and taste of the caviars produced in our factory in Aquitaine.

Since then, all Prunier Caviars have been produced in our factory in Aquitaine.

Prunier Manufacture

FARMING: A GUARANTEE OF QUALITY IN THE SERVICE OF CAVIAR EXCELLENCE

As a producer, Prunier is committed to providing the most favourable natural farming conditions possible. This includes, first and foremost, a terroir that is both preserved and respectful of the local ecosystem.

For example, our fish farms are fed by water from various rivers such as the Adour in the Gers and the Isle in the Dordogne.

Indeed, as our Manufacture Director Mr Laurent Sabeau points out, caviar is above all a reflection of its terroir. It gives it the characteristic and unique flavours of French caviar, combining notes of walnut, hazelnut and almond with a sometimes buttery texture for Osciètre caviar and a sharp attack for Baeri caviar. It is therefore essential to know the farming conditions and origin of the caviar we consume.

At Prunier, we are proud to guarantee you a fully controlled and transparent production process, ‘from the pond to the original tin’, or more generally from egg to egg.

With our long-standing expertise in caviar production, Prunier is able to guarantee a unique, delicate taste that remains consistent over the years, contributing to the reputation of French caviar as one of the best in the world.

Come and discover our 100% French caviars in our restaurant, boutique and on our e-shop.

> OUR FRENCH CAVIARS

> OUR TIPS FOR EATING THE CAVIAR PERFECTLY

SOURCES :

[1] : L’univers du caviar – Frédéric Ramade – édition Solar 1999- P10
[2] : Journal officiel de la République française. Lois et décrets (version papier numérisée) n° 0295 du 15/12/1962 : https://www.legifrance.gouv.fr/download/securePrint?token=@FBHP8qNt2odWpjbVKom

[3] : L’univers du caviar – Frédéric Ramade – édition Solar 1999- P8
[4] : L’estuaire de la Gironde : la pêche à l’esturgeon et le caviar - p5
[5] : L’univers du caviar – Frédéric Ramade – édition Solar 1999- P14

[6] : https://www.capital.fr/economie-politique/la-belle-et-triste-histoire-du-caviar-691341